In the first of our series interviewing inspiring women working in creative fields I spoke to the lovely and super talented Toni Caroline. We discuss her journey into the field, what a day in the life of a stylist looks like, the skills required and the business acumen needed to thrive as a freelancer. I hope you enjoy reading this insight as much as I enjoyed the interview!
You describe yourself as Stylist, Art Director and Creative Producer. What are the main differences between these roles?
As a stylist my main focus is on the clothes. It's my job to ensure they look good, from putting outfits together to dressing the model on the day of the shoot. When I’m art directing it becomes my responsibility to look at the bigger picture – yes, still ensuring the clothes look great, but also the lighting, hair and makeup and so on… I’ll collaborate with the team to make sure we’re working to brief and capturing everything that the client or publication wants.
I find creative production crosses over with art direction a little. This involves a lot of prep, which can be anything from location scouting to pulling together a shot list, and generally making sure everything is planned and ready for the shoot ahead of time so that things run smoothly on the day. On the actual shoot day I’ll work alongside the art director and photographer to fulfil the brief and make sure things are running on schedule, and I’ll also be everyone’s go-to person if they need anything.
I like working in lots of different areas and having various responsibilities as it keeps me on my toes!
What initially drew you to becoming a stylist/art director/creative producer?
I actually studied fashion journalism, however my course did dip a toe in all creative areas of the fashion industry, such as styling and visual merchandising. My first industry job was a creative assistant role at Boden, which is where I learned what an art director was, and what a producer did. I’m quite a hands on person so over the years I have just ended up doing a bit of everything.
What education or training did you complete to enter this field?
I studied at university, then interned in fashion PR for a while before landing my first job as a creative assistant. Alongside my degree and job I used to run a blog, where I shared my personal style and discussed trends that interested me and events like fashion week. Through my blog I began borrowing clothes from PRs and organising my own photoshoots to work on my styling portfolio, which eventually allowed me to go freelance.
How did you land your first job in this field?
Interning, applying to jobs every day and blogging to get noticed! It was a tricky first few months living in London with no salary or long term plan, but I was lucky enough to have a supportive family who helped me until I found my feet.
Can you describe a pivotal moment that shaped your career direction?
Yes. When I was newly freelance and a photographer I knew kindly introduced me to an art director and producer at Paul Smith. They took a chance on me and I ended up freelancing with them for four years doing everything from model casting to on-set styling. It was an amazing opportunity.
How did you build your initial client base?
Most of my clients come through word of mouth, which makes me feel very lucky. To have other people, friends and colleagues, believe in me and my work is a huge compliment. I also work with an amazing agency called Eighteen Management, and through my agent, Claire, I get to work with some amazing clients and people.
How has your approach to styling evolved since you started?
Every shoot day is different, every team works differently and every client wants things done a certain way. In the last ten years I have adapted to this by over-planning, getting enough sleep the night before a shoot and always having a backup plan. I like to be one step ahead, able to anticipate a client’s needs, and always have a solution to any problem that may arise on set, wardrobe or otherwise. I can work much more efficiently and feel more confident working in this way.
What major changes have you observed in the industry since you started?
Even in the short ten years that I’ve been working in fashion things have changed a lot, and it’s definitely not the industry I imagined I’d be working in as a starry eyed, David Bailey obsessed sixteen year old. Firstly, there’s a lot more people trying to do the same job, which means it's more competitive… but on the flip side, thanks to social media and the rise of the influencer, it’s more accessible than ever before, so really anyone can now make it in fashion.
How do you see the industry evolving in the next 5 years?
It took a huge hit during Covid as lots of people changed their shopping habits; even now I don’t think things are back to how they were before lockdown. People are more careful with their spending, with many now second hand shopping and looking at fashion in a more conscious way. My hope is that the industry catches up with the consumer and that more affordable, sustainable options become available for everyone.
What advice would you give someone considering this career?
Anyone wanting to get into fashion styling or the production side of the creative industry, I would say work hard and assist on as many photoshoots as you can to get experience. Experience and networking is key! If you want to be a stylist specifically then blogging, sharing your own outfits on social media and building up your styling portfolio if you can, will definitely help you get ahead!
What's the biggest misconception people have about being a stylist/director/producer?
That it’s a glamorous job.
Walk me through a typical day in your role as an editorial stylist/director/producer.
I’m freelance so any chance of a routine goes out the window! But if I was art directing a campaign shoot for one of my clients for example, it might look like this:
6.45am – Wake to the sound of my alarm, cuddle my dog and snooze for another 15 minutes.
7am – Wake to the sound of my second alarm, reluctantly let go of my dog, get out of bed and get ready for the day ahead.
7.45am – Leave the house, it’s a 10 minute walk to the station, then on the train I’ll check my instagram and read a book.
9am – Arrive at the studio, coffee in hand, open up my laptop and check through the shot list and brief, which I will have created beforehand. Usually I’ll brief the hair and makeup artists first, so they can get started on the model, before talking the photographer through the plan for the day.
10.30am – We’ll start shooting and I’ll sign everything off – the hair, makeup, lighting and styling with the client. We’ll shoot for a few hours, during which time I’ll be working closely with the photographer to ensure we’re getting the shots we need. We’ll break for lunch around 1pm and by this time I like to be half way through the shot list.
1pm – Lunchtime, my favourite part of the day! On set we’ll order in something healthy, like a poke bowl or an exciting salad from Atis. Once we’ve eaten I’ll look through the edit so far with the team and discuss what to shoot next.
2pm – We’ll start shooting the second part of our campaign and I’ll continue to refer to the brief, shot list and schedule, making sure we photograph all of the necessary products and that all of the garments can be seen clearly and look the best they possibly can! Ultimately, my job is to help brands sell their clothes…
5pm – We’ll usually wrap around this time to allow for packing down any equipment, clothing and props ready for collection ahead of a 6pm finish. During this hour the digi tech will handover the day’s files onto my hard-drive, so I can take them home and check through everything before presenting the finals to the client.
6pm – Head home, back on the train I go. I’ll read again then enjoy a nice walk home to decompress, sometimes grabbing a bottle of wine en route.
7.30pm – Once home I’ll put my kit away or pack for the following day if I’m shooting again, and sit down with a glass of wine and my laptop to look through the day’s work before eating dinner. During the week I’m usually in bed by 10.30pm, where I’ll read for half an hour before going to sleep.
A lot of my work happens before and after the shoot, with prep, organising photoshoots, booking teams and finding shoot locations etc. Then post, which is when I edit, sign off images with the client and make any retouch notes. There’s a lot that goes into it either side!
How do you stay organised when juggling multiple clients and projects?
I have a paper diary where I make note of what I’m doing each day, then I also use my iPhone calendar so my husband can also see what my schedule looks like each week. We have a dog so we need to split dog parent duties and we sometimes send her to doggie daycare if we’re both needed at the office / studio and for whatever reason she can’t come with me.
I also keep folders on my laptop for each client / shoot, and I use Pinterest for collecting references, which helps keep all of my projects separate and organised.
What tools and products are essential to your daily work?
Number one, my lint roller! Also essential is my kit, (a lint roller, scissors, elastic bands, double sided tape, safety pins, bulldog clips, a shoe horn, nipple covers and nude underwear), a sturdy suitcase, or two, and my laptop.
What technical skills were most crucial to master when starting out?
When I was first starting out as a fashion stylist I’d say my biggest asset was being able to do a neat tuck! Full tuck, half tuck, French tuck, just learn how to do a good tuck. Now, as an art director and creative producer, I think it’s pretty crucial to be able to use Capture One, Photoshop and InDesign. These will make your life a lot easier.
How do you stay current with evolving style trends?
I use vogue.co.uk to keep an eye on fashion shows and also absorb a lot from instagram I guess whilst scrolling.
What resources do you use for professional development?
I have a MasterClass membership, which I find really useful and inspiring, and I think it’s also important to keep learning, even if it’s outside of your usual field, you never know when new skills might come in handy! I’ve actually just enrolled in a graphic design short course at UAL, so I’m looking forward to starting that next month.
How did you determine your pricing structure?
Generally my day rate is the same across the board – this is a number that both myself and my clients feel comfortable with – however it all depends on what the job is, how much prep and work is involved outside of the shoot day, and what the usage is. Usually the more usage required, the higher the fee. This goes for any freelance creative in any field.
What marketing strategies have been most effective?
I find instagram very useful and a good place to share my work, however LinkedIn is also a great place for networking and I’ve connected with many other creatives on there.
How do you handle seasonal fluctuations in business?
When you’re freelance you can expect your workload to go up and down, and it is hard to stay positive when things get quiet… What I have learned with time is that things have a way of working themselves out, and whenever I start worrying about a quiet week, a new job will come in and suddenly I’m rushed off my feet again! I try to just go with the flow now and not overthink it.
How important is networking in growing your business?
Networking is important, of course. However I find the best way to grow your business is to be proactive, be kind, and always give 110%! People like working with a “yes” person.
I would like to thank Toni very much for her time she put into the interview. You can find out more about Toni on her website tonicaroline.co.uk and follow her creative direction on her instagram @toni_caroline. For bookings and collabs please email her directly tonicaroline@hotmail.co.uk
Best wishes,
Paul